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What was New York like back in 1993? While some of today's rising chefs were running around in sandboxes, Mario Batali and David Bouley were just starting out, battling the grittiness of New York City in 1993, a New York without Starbucks, cellphones, and sky-high rent. And to hear their stories, you might just have to walk to your nearest pay phone.
To publicize the New Museum's latest exhibit "NYC 1993: Experimental Jet Set, Trash and No Star," 5,000 public pay phones have been wired to bring up recordings of notable New Yorkers, recounting the city back in '93. You simply have to dial 1-855-FOR-1993.
Pay phones around the West Village might bring up Mario Batali's recording, where the Italian chef talks about opening his first restaurant Pó on Cornelia Street.
"It was a good time to be here," he says in his recording. "You could open a restaurant in the West Village or the East Village at that point for money that didn’t mean that you had to have a bank roll. You didn’t have to have a rich daddy or an investor or put together a team or anything like that."
Pó opened with reused tables and chairs from other restaurants, a bar built by a friend, and pure grit. "The reigning kings at that point of the downtown younger chefs were the Blue Ribbon boys, Bobby Flay, Tom Valenti, Matthew Kenney, and we’d all open our restaurants and then close them and then go back to the Blue Ribbon and have a couple of drinks and a couple of oysters and relax."
While Pó is still at its original location, the neighborhood has obviously changed. "It’s sad to watch the cost of business push the real individualist entrepreneurs out of the game," Batali says. "That’s what I kind of miss, you know?"
David Bouley, in the meantime, was in the fifth year of his first restaurant Bouley in the Financial District, doing all the small farmer sourcing and ingredient-focused cooking so ubiquitous today.
"When you went into the Bouley restaurant at that time, the first thing you smelled were cases and cases of apples, and the smell was amazing..." Bouley says in his recording at Duane Street and West Broadway. "If you were coming from a pressured life, suddenly you were feeling relaxed, your body is getting excited for food."
Not only does Bouley recount his relationship with the farmers and customers of the time, he also noted the extreme relationship between Wall Street and his restaurant. "I remember one man told me that by the time he got to the maître d' stand walking down the hall from the front door, he had forgotten about the $6 million he lost that morning because of the apples," he said.
The pay phones will serve as wormholes to 1993 until May 26, when the New Museum's exhibit closes. Mario Batali's clip can be heard around West Village, although a trip to a designated pay phone at the northwest corner of Sixth Avenue and Fourth Street proved futile, as the phone didn't work.
Bouley's clip is only available on the northwest corner of Duane Street and West Broadway, a representative tells us, but plenty of other notable New Yorkers like Robin Byrd and Chazz Palminteri can be heard on the lines. And while the line is accessible via cellphone and landline, you'll simply hear Speed Levitch telling you to use a pay phone. It's worth sauntering up to a an unused pay phone booth and getting a few stares. Just expect some technical difficulties.
David Bouley and Yoshiki Tsuji
Y oshiki Tsuji, president of the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka Japan and son of the famous founder, studied the chalk writing that covered a 40-foot slate wall in its entirety. Overflowing with hundreds of notes and ingredient lists, the floor-to-ceiling charcoal grey chalkboard represented the summation of three days of experimental cooking. Some of the notes and sketches were written with extreme care, while other depictions looked like they could have been scrawled by Tom Hank&rsquos cave-dwelling character in &ldquoCastaway.&rdquo Moving skillfully around Mr. Tsuji was an assemblage of Japanese and American chefs, chatting happily and immersed in various stages of culinary business. Mr. Tsuji, dressed in black, is a handsome and slim man who looked more like a young architect than someone who runs a cooking school with over 3000 students. As he moved deliberately around the stations, he checked the work of his team of professors and chefs, offering suggestions like a teacher, and asking questions like an entrepreneur. Mr Tsuji and his team had flown in from Japan in order to play on David Bouley&rsquos field of dreams, his just-completed Tribeca test kitchen.
&ldquoWe&rsquove been here a week, and we are trying to use American ingredients to create a menu that is authentically Japanese in terms of purity,&rdquo said Mr. Tsuji. &ldquoThe most important thing for us right now is the palette, for the taste to be acceptable, particularly for New Yorkers, because they are the ones who are the clients.&rdquo
In the middle of this multi million dollar culinary playground, Mr. Bouley was everywhere, both physically and in spirit. He seemed even more energized than normal, and he comfortably changed roles throughout the afternoon and evening. At times he was the gracious host, greeting each visitor at the door who had accepted his kind invitation to come and witness the first major event of his test kitchen. Other times he donned the hat of supply sergeant, making sure the chefs had every ingredient they needed and a few more they didn&rsquot know they needed. He sent various staff members around the city to fetch items, even if it was bottles of water and cups of coffee for thirsty or tired onlookers. But his primary role was that of chief taster, conferring with everyone from the fish purveyor who was watching the show, to the line cooks who were chopping and boiling and experimenting with a virtually unlimited supply of local ingredients and carefully selected Japanese accoutrements.
&ldquoWe&rsquore studying a lot more about the local products,&rdquo explained Bouley, who had been frustrated by space limitations during similar experimental exercises in past years. &ldquoWe&rsquove tried 25 fish today, and this Sunday we&rsquoll have another 30. Now that we have a test kitchen, we can do a lot more. Before, we used to work in a small room downstairs in the corner and it was tough we&rsquod go upstairs, come back down then back upstairs. &rdquo
The joining of these two talents is not a recent development. They met nearly 20 years ago when Tsuji was a young New York investment trader. Bouley was invited to a private home in South Hampton by Tsuji&rsquos father, in order to sample some authentic Japanese food. They kept in touch, and thirteen years ago Yoshiki Tsuji took over the rein at the school when his father passed away. Soon, he began to invite Bouley to Japan to perform regular demonstrations in front of classrooms. Once they decided to plan something more concrete together, they began taking turns flying to each other&rsquos corner of the world: Tsuji and his team have been to New York several times, and Bouley has made 4 trips to Japan. So their collaboration has spanned many years and tens of thousands of miles.
While their stated goal this week was to apply techniques that are authentically Japanese to Bouley&rsquos cooking methods and then create a new menu for his upcoming restaurants, it also seemed like a pretty good excuse for two friends to get together and have fun &ndash almost like a vacation.
&ldquoIt&rsquos so much more fun being here than running a school back in Japan, this is completely different,&rdquo said Tsuji. He pointed to the Bouley team and then to his team as they worked together. &ldquoThese guys realize whatever I am thinking, and they tell me what&rsquos possible and what&rsquos not possible, in respect to Japanese cuisine, technique-wise and flavor-wise. They keep their rules and we keep our rules, and I just go back and forth! But it has to be real, Japanese cuisine should never be &lsquoorganized&rsquo, in the sense that it shouldn&rsquot be mass-produced. As David always says, &lsquoIt should have a heart,&rsquo particularly with Japanese flavors.&rdquo
The collaboration between David Bouley and Yoshiki Tsuji is just the beginning of a series of talented culinary artists from around the world who will be invited to come here and demonstrate, taste, teach, and learn. Today it is being used as an incubator for future Bouley Asian-inspired restaurants. But it will also become a reciprocal environment, where guests will come to demonstrate various cooking techniques from around the globe.
&ldquoThere&rsquos a lot of opportunity now for us to understand more about technique and application to our current repertoire of ingredients that has been accelerated, I think, as the nicer restaurants are starting to bring in more Japanese cuisine,&rdquo says Bouley. &ldquoThat&rsquos what excited me about it years ago and I&rsquove always wanted to know more of it, but I never had time in the old restaurant because I was working 100 hundred hours a week. But now I have this huge opportunity for us to work together. There are many dishes that will be born here with us working together.&rdquo
There are chefs from as far north as Stockholm who want to come here to trade and create recipes with the Bouley group, Italian and French chefs, as well as a Spanish chef who is coming next month. An incredibly diverse cultural mixture will move through this 2200 square foot room in the years to come, a room whose primary attraction is culinary freedom. Talented chefs can come together to have fun in a less structured environment than they are used to, and this will hopefully lead to collaborative dishes that would not be possible in other settings. But amidst the optimism of good things to come, there were still subtle signs that the room was still not 100% done, such as electricians running in and out of the room along with a dozen or so finishing touches. But these won&rsquot stop all the people who are already on their way.
&ldquoWe&rsquove got a Peruvian chef coming in October to talk about the fingerling potatoes. They&rsquove got 6000 kinds of potatoes in Peru, every color known to man. We have a chef from Singapore that&rsquos going to be coming in November. But I haven&rsquot really totally committed everything yet, because I just got the electricity on last week.&rdquo
Don&rsquot be looking for Bouley&rsquos new Manhattan Japanese restaurant just yet. The menu for his new Miami restaurant, called &ldquoEvolution,&rdquo will evolve partially from menus developed here, and he is also working out the cost structure for the menu they are creating before settling on a Manhattan location. Evolution is the first restaurant outside of Bouley&rsquos normal 3 or 4-block Tribeca radius, and he&rsquos moving forward carefully.
&ldquoWe&rsquove got to find a place but I think we are getting closer in terms of what kind of dishes we want to do. Like the homemade sesame tofu with the sea urchin, that was amazing. The whole meat inside is white and yellow and when you eat those two together, it&rsquos amazing. But we have to think about it from the kitchen point of view, from the payroll point of view, how can we do it with the quality we want, how many seats we can do in that quality. And also keep one area open just for fun, for spontaneous cooking, where you just sit down and we say &lsquowe&rsquore going to cook for you.&rsquo That&rsquos fun too.&rdquo
10 years have passed since David Bouley first began planning the construction of a cooking school and test kitchen. Through heartbreak and controversy and 9-11 he persisted and held on to his dream, and now with two new restaurants on the way and chefs around the world lining up to share techniques with Bouley and his dedicated staff, he must have felt a sense of redemption as he watched his test kitchen&rsquos first menu unfold before him.
THE MAGIC OF A DISH: New York Top Chef Goes to Japan
Acclaimed NY chef David Bouley has delighted celebrities with his innovative French cuisine spiced with "Bouley Magic." But to everyone's surprise, Bouley, now in his 60's, has closed his flagship restaurant to set out on a journey of training. He's headed for Japan in search of the finest health food. We follow him as he studies the art of traditional fermented foods across Japan that inspire the creation of his ultimate dish.
Bouley travels across Japan to learn about the traditional foods of various regions the "tofu-yo" in Okinawa Prefecture made by pickling tofu in red malted rice and Awamori (strong Okinawa liquor), salted mackerels in Fukui Prefecture called "heshiko" that are pickled in rice bran, and Toyama Prefecture's Koji (malted rice) used for preparing miso. In the northern island of Hokkaido Prefecture, he meets craftsmen who share their knowledge of producing kelp to make the tastiest stock and of the technique of Ikejime (a way to kill the fish without stressing it). Here, he happens to encounter the great earthquake. Bouley encourages the people affected by the disaster with his magical food. Returning to NY, he heads straight to his kitchen to work on new recipes. Exploring the knowledge and skills he learned in Japan, he creates dish after dish of exciting and innovative food. In the hope of leading people to healthier food, what does the gifted chef create as the ultimate dish?
David DiBari of The Cookery
From the beginning, chef David DiBari promised creativity and simplicity for the dishes to be served at The Cookery with priority on locally grown, quality, sustainable ingredients to be purchased from Hudson Valley farmers.
His pledges are being fulfilled. A big supporter of the Irvington Farmer's Market, The Cookery purchases many products and produce from the participating farms. In addition, it is outfitting its wait staff with T shirts that bear the names of seasonably available vegetables obtainable at the Irvington Farmer's Market.
Chef DiBari along with partner Michael O'Neill, opened The Cookery in Dobbs Ferry in March, 2009. Prior to starting the Italian comfort-food restaurant, DiBari had been executive chef at Zuppa in Yonkers for five years and O'Neill had handled the front of the house at Zuppa for four years.
The Cookery opened during difficult economic times in the country. The owners rewarded each customer who ordered a drink called the "Obama Stimulus Package" with a crisp new dollar bill as a coaster. The beverage, a rum and pineapple cocktail, was intended as a salute to the newly elected president. It also was a first hint that this management had no intention of boring its patrons with unimaginative food or beverages.
"We picked the name The Cookery," DiBari said, "because that was what we came here to do - cook great food."
When it opened, The Cookery's menu combined new dishes with some of DiBari's signature favorites such as beef short ribs crisp Heritage pork osso bucco "Easter Pie" made with ricotta cheese and salami cauliflower ravioli and grilled pizzete with clams, garlic and olio santo. Old DiBari favorites on the dessert list included fritters made with gelato and marmalade, and Budino, a warm Valrhona chocolate bread pudding with chocolate anglaise and fresh berries.
The new dishes created for opening day included a creamy pasta called "White Lasagna" that combined bechamel sauce with ricotta, mushrooms - the dish originated in the region of Marche in Italy.
Crisp Heritage pork osso bucco ($23), cauliflower ravioli ($14), and white lasagna ($15) are still on the menu although their recipes may have undergone some refinements.
Pasta fritta and Budino remain from the original dessert selection. Two exiotic sweet treats were recently introduced: sticky tortina which is a warm date cake with toffee and vanilla gelato, and liquid amaretto cake with Slovenian sea salt. All desserts are priced at $8.
Once the doors had opened, DiBari set out to develop Italian-influenced dishes that reflected a "progressive approach" to simplicity. "The idea was to to use a few simple ingredients to make one harmonious dish," he said. Newer dishes include whole grilled Branzino ($25), crisp duck legs ($23), chicken al matone ($21), and macaroni lisci with octopus, green chili and pistachio ($13). Chicken al matone is butterflied chicken weighted down when grilled by a brick for crispy skin.
While in high school, Dibari worked part-time at the Paradise Bar & Grill in Verplanck, New York and at Crystal Bay Seafood & Company in Peekskill. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, he trained under Mario Batali at Babbo and with David Bouley at Danube. He also cooked at Windows on the World, Patroon and Five Points. Before joining Zuppa, he was the executive chef at Eastchester Fish Market.
DiBari's mother had a job so his grandmother helped with the cooking. When he was 13, he was trusted to clean green beans and other vegetables grown in the garden grandma introduced him cooking when he was 15. Her large wooden kitchen table occupies a place of honor by the window at The Cookery and is used to seat larger parties. Laura Capicotto, his mother, helps out occasionally by making pasta and consulting on recipes.
On Thanksgiving Eve in 2009, The Cookery provided complimentary dining for the less fortunate in cooperation with local charities. Earlier in the year, it donated a portion of its receipts to the charities of choice of its customers.
DiBari recently toured Italy and part of his mission was to find new wines. After much tasting he selected three: 2007 Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Ripasso) M. Castellani from Veneto 2007 Verdicchio "Casal di Serra," Unani Ronchi from Le Marche and 2009 Sauvignon, Torre Rosozza from Friuli. All are priced at $40 per bottle or $11 per glass.
Profile Chef David Bouley
Chef David Bouley is an American chef and restaurateur with restaurants in New York City.
After spending his early years working in the best kitchens of France and Europe, under such great chefs as Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé and Gaston Lenôtre, Chef David Bouley worked in New York City in leading restaurants of the time, such as Le Cirque, Le Périgord, and La Côte Basque. In 1985, he became head chef of Montrachet restaurant. In 1987 he opened his own restaurant, “Bouley,” in TriBeCa overlooking Duane Park. The restaurant earned a four-star review in The New York Times and won James Beard Foundation awards for the Best Restaurant and Best Chef, among other Beard Awards. In 2015, Bouley was awarded the “Best Restaurant Award in the United States” from TripAdvisor's Traveler's Choice Awards, ranking #15 in the world. Chef Bouley also received 29 out a 30 rating in Zagat. He was named “Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador” in 2016.
Following the September 11 attacks, Bouley Bakery served as a base to feed rescue and relief workers at Ground Zero. Known as The Green Tarp, over one million meals for Ground Zero relief workers were prepared in conjunction with the Red Cross.
Bouley Bids Adieu to New York City After 30 Years
Monday, July 31 is the final day for longtime Tribeca French restaurant Bouley, the original fine dining restaurant chef-owner David Bouley ran and kept relevant enough to earn three stars from the New York Times as recently as last year.
NYT critic Pete Wells called the restaurant “silly,” “not trendy,” and “delicious,” and it can be perfect sometimes, too. He wrote, “Yes, perfection. Bouley can skim within sight of it on the right night with the right people. At other times, it’s clear that the restaurant can’t maintain a single-minded focus on doing absolutely everything right.”
Now, Bouley has closed the apple-filled restaurant and will use it as a private event space instead, while focusing his attention on a myriad of other projects. Next up is B at Home, a wine bar with food in the Flatiron District at 31 East 21st Street, next door to where he recently relocated his test kitchen. His other restaurants — Brushstroke, the Bouley Test Kitchen and Bouley Botanical — are business as usual, with lunch starting at Bouley Botanical in August.
Bouley’s influence is perhaps most profound in the family tree it has sprouted. Chefs from the Bouley kitchen have gone on to open Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Dan Barber), Le Bernardin (Eric Ripert), Annisa (Anita Lo), Milk Bar (Christina Tosi), and more.
Salt-Baked Pesce Per Due with Braised Greens
Fettuccine with Rock Shrimp, Corn & Jalapeño
Grilled Mahimahi with Panella and Chickpeas
About Dave Pasternak
In 2005, The New Yorker identified Dave’s strength as “knowing when something needs a little something.” Similarly, Frank Bruni, in his three-star New York Times review of ESCA, called Dave a “fish whisperer.” Indeed, Dave respects the nuances of fish cookery and embraces its subtleties. In 2004, the James Beard Foundatioin recognized Dave as Best Chef: New York City. He’s also an avid fisherman and is equally enthusiastic about catching fish as he is about serving it. At ESCA, freshness reigns, whether it’s a just-caught halibut from the Pacific, flown in a few hours before dinner or a local striped bass caught by Dave himself at home on the Long Island Sound.
David Pasternack is a master chef whose specialty is fish and who practices his art at Esca, his restaurant on West 43rd Street in Manhattan. Mr. Pasternack’s major innovation, when Esca opened in 2000, was introducing New Yorkers to the delicately seasoned raw-fish combinations known as crudo, the restaurant’s Italianized version of sashimi — with a dollop of olive oil, lemon juice or vinegar, a dot of sea salt (Mr. Pasternack uses several kinds) and minuscule garnishes from the chef’s imagination: sea beans, artichoke slices, pine nuts, pickled fiddleheads.
Frank Bruni, the restaurant critic of The New York Times, wrote in 2007 in his three-star (excellent) review of Esca — which means “bait” in Italian — that Mr. Pasternack enjoys “some preternatural rapport with the sea’s creatures, an extrasensory insight” and that he can “tease out their greatest performances.”
“He’s an honest-to-God fisherman,” Mr. Bruni continued, “in love with the ocean, and Esca is his ongoing ode to it.”
Among the favorite dishes Mr. Bruni cited were orange marlin, seared and served with fava beans and pink snapper, grilled and presented with the skin on.
Mr. Pasternack grew up in Rockville Centre, N.Y., close to the South Shore of Long Island, and developed his love for the sea — and for fishing — at an early age. When he was 14, he was a busboy in a steakhouse in Rockville Centre. “I started cooking when I was 18,” he once recalled, “and my first job was in a fish restaurant on Long Island.” He went to culinary school at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., and spent two decades working in New York restaurants, many of which specialized in French cuisine — including La Reserve, Bouley, Steak Frites, Prix Fixe and Sam’s. “Over the years, I had lots of French training,” Mr. Pasternack recalled, “but I wanted to do fish.”
His major break came when he went to work at Picholine, on the Upper West Side of Manhattan near Lincoln Center. In a 2005 profile of Mr. Pasternack in The New Yorker, the writer Mark Singer noted that when Ruth Reichl of The Times gave Picholine three stars in 1996, “it was understood that Pasternack, the chef de cuisine, deserved much of the credit. One of his signature dishes was seared sturgeon with caviar sauce the fish was served with a reduction of shallots, white wine, champagne vinegar, tarragon, and peppercorns whisked with a beurre blanc, to which malossol caviar was added at the last moment.” Esca was started by Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich, in combination with Mr. Pasternack, who is co-owner as well as chef. In reviewing Esca after its 2000 opening, William Grimes said that the crudo appetizers “are the freshest, most exciting thing to happen to Italian food in recent memory” and that much of the menu is “simple but arresting.”
In 2004, Mr. Pasternack won the James Beard Award as best New York chef. Mr. Singer wrote that for several years, Mr. Pasternack would travel to Esca from his home in Long Beach, N.Y. (also on the South Shore) with “plastic garbage bags containing fish that he’d caught the previous day.”
In his 2007 review, Mr. Bruni wrote that Esca “is a steady, well-oiled trawler moving through placid seas.” The secret of the chef’s success? “It’s passion,” Mr. Pasternack told Mr. Singer, “plus knowing when something needs a little something.”
More Changes for David BouleyMichael Nagle for The New York Times David Bouley in the kitchen at Bouley.
David Bouley is shrinking his holdings. On April 14, he will close Bouley Bakery and Market on the corner of Duane Street and West Broadway and he has canceled his plans for a commissary and market in SoHo.
He has a history of reworking his domain, so this latest move is not unusual. This time, he said, he wants to be in the kitchen more often at his main restaurant, Bouley.
“I’m getting out of retail,” he said. “Running a bakery does not interest me. It takes too much of my time and energy for marginal profit. I want to devote all my energy, all my resources and ability, to making the Bouley flagship the highest culinary experience.”
And while he has abandoned his plans for a Japanese restaurant called Brushstroke on West Broadway (he said there were structural problems in the building) he will open a Japanese restaurant this fall called Boji in the former Danube and Secession space with Yoshiki Tsuji, who runs cooking schools in Japan and France.
If you walk west along Duane Street toward Hudson Street, you may see him at work in Bouley’s ground floor kitchen, which has a window onto the street. Since this grand, third incarnation of his signature restaurant opened about a year and a half ago, he has been cooking more than he has in years.
“I want everything, the food and the experience, to be at the level of the physical space I have here,” he said. “I don’t have partners, I do it all myself and with the amount of time it takes to run the kind of restaurant I want I can’t do a lot of other things.’’
He said he wanted to cater to customers the way he did at the original Bouley, where he could spend time seeking the finest ingredients, and where people often left the meal up to him and never even looked at a menu. “It was like cooking for friends in my house,” he said. “I still hear from people how much they miss it. It’s the highest calling for a chef and I was the happiest I ever was.”
He said he will continue to run his test kitchen on West Broadway and Chambers Street, where he invites chefs and winemakers to do in-depth presentations and experiments, especially for Japanese ingredients and techniques. The test kitchen is a money-maker thanks to the public events that are held there, but it also provides visiting chefs with a venue to present their food. He also has a couple of banquet rooms at Bouley, a first for him, and they add substantially to the bottom line.
And with an eye on the economy, in addition to his $125 prix-fixe menu at dinner, and $48 at lunch, he is introducing a $36 lunch with six courses counting the petits fours.
“I’m still connecting the dots here,” he said. 𠇋ut the one thing I learned is that the market is taking too much time. I know the community loved it, loved my chickens and baked goods, but I can’t keep it up. Not everything I planned made sense.”
David Bouley Wants You to Have a "Living Pantry"
Chef David Bouley wants you to have a "living pantry." He wants you to have vegetable "building blocks, or mise en place " on hand so that you can make a sophisticated meal in seven minutes. Sound impossible? Or just unlikely? What if all you needed was a single onion and a heat source? Or a bunch of parsley, some olive oil and a glove of garlic? Vegetables are complex -- they only need to be treated simply to achieve powerful results. (They can also be more difficult to master than meat, depending on what you're going for, but for the "mise en place" Bouley's promoting, a simple slow roast will yield an incredible texture for all sorts of dishes with just one step.)
In a discussion with New York Times food writer Melissa Clark at the New York Wine and Food Festival this weekend, David Bouley talked about his philosophy and practice of slow cooking vegetables as method of "cooking for longevity." Most recently, his focus is on preparing nutrient-rich food. Bouley has built one of the most praised restaurants in New York -- Bouley -- and indeed a whole culinary family, with Brushstroke and the Bouley Test Kitchen, based on this concept. He understands the value of connecting with ingredients and letting them do the work. Putting vegetables on center stage may be all the rage right now, but Bouley's been doing it in fine dining for years.
Inspired by his French grandmother's "clean cooking," Bouley has been chasing the simple, French cooking he knew as a kid ever since he became a chef. Aiming to rectify the misconception that all French cooking is overly rich and filling, "no cream, no butter," became Bouley's mantra -- although you would never have known by the sheer taste of his food. His mission is finding and perfecting ways to achieve the complexity of fat, without fat. For a crowd of avid food fans, Bouley explained the value of building blocks in cooking, his first culinary experience (at six years old, starting a little fire when he spilled some juice in attempting to baste alongside his grandmother), and how he got where he is today.
Bouley is constantly learning and improving his food through countless trials in the kitchen, and keeping a close eye on the patrons in his restaurants. He still checks cleared plates diligently, he told the audience. If a plate comes back clean, then he knows he's got a good dish. But he's never entirely satisfied. He might change the tasting menu three times in one night.
As he explained his process in the restaurant kitchen, the early years of his life as a chef and his enthusiasm for bringing simple, clean cooking to his customers, Bouley's passion was clear. As he relentlessly evolves his craft, trying to reap even more nutrition from even more flavor, Bouley's own "living pantry" means more than just the homemade, vegetable-based mise-en-place he's touting. It's alive with constant research, experimentation, advancement and heart.
David Bouley’s Tribute to Charlie Trotter
Please join us in celebrating multiple JBF Award winner Charlie Trotter&rsquos legacy, when fellow JBF Award winner David Bouley, of New York City&rsquos famed Bouley and Brushstroke restaurants, will prepare a thoughtful, spectacular meal to honor and remember his friend and colleague. This very special event will take place on the 21st anniversary of their collaborative dinner at the Beard House in 1993.
Proceeds from this event will support the Charlie Trotter Culinary Education Foundation.
Event photos taken by Geoff Mottram.
- Hors d'Oeuvre
- Chef's Selection of Seasonal Canapés
- Champagne Veuve Clicquot Brut NV
- Malibu Sea Urchin with Dayboat Monkfish Liver and Golden Osetra Caviar
- Champagne Veuve Clicquot Brut NV
- Organic Scottish Salmon with Pickled Winter Vegetables, Micro-Celery, and Salmon Trout Roe
- Flowers Chardonnay 2012
- Porcini Flan with Golden Princess and Alaskan Dungeness Crab and Black Truffle Dashi
- Flowers Chardonnay 2012
- Savoy Cabbage&ndashSteamed Organic Squab with Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Périgord Truffles
- Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco 2004
- White Fallow Venison with Oregon Wild Bluefoot Mushroom Daube
- Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
- Clementine Vacherin
- Jorge Ordoñez & Co. No. 2 Victoria Moscatel 2011
- Chocolate "Frivolous"
Tickets to events held at the James Beard House cover the cost of food and a unique dining experience. Dinners are prepared by culinary masters from all regions of the United States and around the world. All alcoholic beverages are provided on a complimentary basis and are not included in the ticket price.
What's David Bouley Going to Do With all Those Apples When He Closes His Flagship Restaurant?
Bouley, the only restaurant in the world with an apple foyer, is closing later this year. But its chef/proprietor, David Bouley, plans to reopen the restaurant in a much smaller space at some point in the not-too-distant-future. To emphasize the finer points of the move, the chef wrote a series of messages down on a piece of paper for Times scribe Jeff Gordinier, like "Bouley is not closing" and "Bouley is on sabbatical." It's a bit of a schtick-y routine, but there's nothing wrong with over-communicating a move like this, especially when your reputation as one of New York's premiere fine dining chef/restaurateurs is at stake. Bouley has been in business for nearly three decades, after all. It's weathered numerous financial storms and still retains three stars from the Times.
The chef already has a new space picked out: the second floor of a townhouse at 17 Harrison Street. This new restaurant will have 20 to 25 seats compared to the 120 seats at its current home, and it will only be open five days a week. Bouley also plans to trim down the dining room and kitchen staff. The chef tells the Times : "I mean, it’s ridiculous how expensive everything is. I feel like I’m on a treadmill. The costs are so high. At the end of the day, I can only charge so much."
And the move to Harrison Street isn't the only big change in the Bouley universe. Next year, the chef plans to move his other restaurants — Brushstroke, Ichimura at Brushstroke, Bouley at Home, and his test kitchen — into a new yet-to-be-determined space. Think of it as a Bouley mini mall in Tribeca.
Watch the video: David Bouley: Chef and Restaurateur (July 2022).